[Review] GeeeTech G2S Pro

Geeetech G2S Pro: The acrylic Delta that really couldn’t.

A while back I decided I wanted to see what all the fuss about these Delta printers were about, and so I bought the Geeetech G2S for $350USD. It is has been an absolute nightmare to work with. I really try not to throw good money after bad money, but I have spent more than I would have liked to try to get this piece of junk into a state that actually works, and at this point, I have almost been successful – but have added a good 50% to the purchase cost in the process…

  • Purchased “G2S PRO” metal part upgrade kit ($100USD) – the original printed parts provided (brittle PLA of course) all cracked, and the original PEEK hot ends both melted at under 200ºC (supposedly).
  • Purchased Buildtak surfaces ($50) – the aluminium plate doesnt stick to anything…
  • Purchased new LM10UU bearings (IGUS Drylin) ($40)- the original ones were poor quality, frequently jammed and were terribly noisy.
  • Purchased new stepper drivers ($100) – the original ones overheated mid way through a print each time
  • Purchased new nuts and screws – the kit came with many wrong parts!
  • Purchased new power supply ($40)- the original power supply failed on the 2nd ever print!
  • Probably will get new top and bottom plates cut from aluminium to replace the acrylic ($$$)

The main problem with this printer that cannot be fixed, is the acrylic frame. It really is not rigid enough to allow precision printing at high speeds – which is one of the key advantages of the delta-style printers. At lower speeds it is fine and produces good prints, and if you are willing to put up with some ringing and artifacts in your prints, you can spit out prints fairly fast. But you only have to touch the frame to notice the lack of stiffness the acrylic provides.


  • The name has “Pro” in it.
  • Nothing else.


  • Firmware struggling to produce smooth curves – see my other article.
  • Flimsy frame limits quality of prints
  • Plastic motion blocks and cheap delta-rod ball joints have significant ‘play’
  • Many upgrades needed just to get print quality to acceptable levels.
  • Dual extrusion extremely difficult to align.
  • Provided steppers overheat, and do not provide enough current for extruder motor to push filament down the down long bowden setup.
  • SD card slot extremely frustrating to use and very poorly positioned
  • Many steel parts rust spontaneously due to poor surface treatment
  • Bed levelling mechanism poorly implemented



If you see this printer for sale as a kit, don’t walk away – RUN!

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